Measurements you need
Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.
Usually 31½–51⅛ in.Usually 80–130 cm.Tape around the base of the neck: at the back across the prominent vertebra, in front — above the hollow between the collarbones. You can leave 0 — we'll calculate from the bust.Tape around the base of the neck: at the back across the prominent vertebra, in front — above the hollow between the collarbones. You can leave 0 — we'll calculate from the bust.
Usually 13⅜–16½ in.Usually 34–42 cm.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.
Usually 33⅛–51⅛ in.Usually 84–130 cm.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.
Usually 14⅝–17⅜ in.Usually 37–44 cm.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 23⅝ in, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 60 cm, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.
Skirt 15¾–39⅜ in, pants 35⅜–43¼ in, shorts 11¾–21⅝ in.Skirt 40–100 cm, pants 90–110 cm, shorts 30–55 cm.Bend your arm slightly at the elbow. From the end of the shoulder (shoulder bone) along the outside of the arm through the elbow to the desired length: for a long sleeve, to the wrist bone.Bend your arm slightly at the elbow. From the end of the shoulder (shoulder bone) along the outside of the arm through the elbow to the desired length: for a long sleeve, to the wrist bone.
Long 22–24⅜ in, three-quarter 16½–18⅞ in, short 8⅝–11 in. For children, long is about 0.29 of height.Long 56–62 cm, three-quarter 42–48 cm, short 22–28 cm. For children, long is about 0.29 of height.Tape around the wrist over the protruding bone, loose, not tight. The cuff is drafted from it: add 2¾ in ease and ¾ in for the closure.Tape around the wrist over the protruding bone, loose, not tight. The cuff is drafted from it: add 7 cm ease and 2 cm for the closure.
For men, usually 6¼–7⅞ in.For men, usually 16–20 cm.How the shirt is drafted
The base is our women's sloper without darts, with ease for shirting fabric: classic fit — 5½ in14 cm at the bust and another ⅛ in0.22 cm for every centimeter of bust beyond 86.5 (larger sizes get a looser shirt, like ready-to-wear), fitted — narrower and with darts at the back, relaxed — with a back pleat. The front is ¾ in2 cm wider than the back — room for the bust. The shoulder is barely dropped, the armhole is deep and almost vertical from the shoulder point. The neckline is deeper than on the sloper: a women's shirt collar sits lower. The yoke is on the back only, with a seam along the shoulder. The collar stand follows the neckline exactly plus the closure, the collar sits on top of the stand, and the sleeve has a high sleeve cap (0.265 of the armhole length), two pleats and a vent at the cuff.
We checked the draft against proven commercial patterns for the same style: the key measurements match.
The pattern maker checks the draft itself: bust, matching side seams, armhole with the yoke, collar stand along the neckline, collar along the stand, sleeve cap along the armhole and sleeve hem along the cuff. The results are in the "Draft check" section.
How to print and tape
Download the PDF on Letter or A4 sheets and print at 100%, without "fit to page". The first sheet has the test square: measure it with a ruler. Sheets are taped with an overlap along the ⅜ in1 cm strips; sheet numbers and the assembly guide are on the first page. For a copy shop or plotter, choose "One-sheet PDF".
What you get
The yoke, back, front with a facing and button markings, sleeve with a vent and pleats, collar stand, collar, cuff and vent facing — full size, with seam allowances.
FAQ
How is it different from a men's shirt?
The draft is the same, but on a women's sloper: the front is wider than the back — room for the bust, the shoulder is barely dropped, the neckline is deeper at both the front and the back, the yoke is deeper and on the back only — the seam runs along the shoulder. The collar stand is lower, the collar is higher, the cuff is narrow. There's no bust dart: the ease at the bust is enough for a relaxed shirt.
Which fit should I choose?
Classic — 5½–7½ in14–19 cm wider than the body at the bust, more on larger sizes, like ready-to-wear shirts. Fitted — narrower, with darts at the back and sides shaped in to the waist. Relaxed — oversized, with a back pleat.
What fabric should I use?
Shirting cotton, batiste, chambray, linen, viscose, lightweight flannel for a warm shirt. Interface the collar stand, collar and cuffs with fusible interfacing.
How do I measure sleeve length?
Arm down: from the shoulder point to the wrist bone. The pattern maker subtracts the cuff and adds ¾ in2 cm for the blousing.