Measurements you need
Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.
Usually 31½–51⅛ in.Usually 80–130 cm.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.
Usually 33⅛–51⅛ in.Usually 84–130 cm.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.
Usually 14⅝–17⅜ in.Usually 37–44 cm.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 23⅝ in, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 60 cm, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.
Skirt 15¾–39⅜ in, pants 35⅜–43¼ in, shorts 11¾–21⅝ in.Skirt 40–100 cm, pants 90–110 cm, shorts 30–55 cm.Which ease to choose
| Garment | Bust ease | Armhole depth ease |
|---|---|---|
| T-shirt | +3⅛–3⅞ in8–10 cm | +¾–1⅛ in2–3 cm |
| Sweatshirt | +4¾–5½ in12–14 cm | +1⅝ in4 cm |
| Hoodie, oversized | +7⅛–9½ in18–24 cm | +2–2⅜ in5–6 cm |
How the men's block is drafted
The draft is the same as our dartless block (which we checked against proven commercial patterns), but with men's proportions. If you don't enter shoulder width and neck circumference, the tool estimates them from bust: shoulders — 0.2 bust + 8⅛ in20.5 cm (16 in40.5 cm at bust 100), neck — 0.17 bust + 9 in23 cm. The bust line sits 0.1 bust + 5 in12.6 cm below the prominent vertebra — ¾ in2 cm deeper than the women's block, and the default back waist length is 17¾ in45 cm. The shoulder slope is less than on the women's block: almost none on the T-shirt, ¾–1⅝ in2–4 cm on the sweatshirt and hoodie. The sleeve cap on the men's block is lower and the sleeve is wider — like on men's knit T-shirts.
We checked the draft against proven commercial patterns for the same style: the key measurements match.
Sleeve and hood
Draft the block and go to the "Sleeve" tab: the tool will take this block's armhole and make the sleeve cap lower — for the dropped shoulder. On the "Hood" tab, the hood neckline will be taken from this block's neckline.
How to print and tape
Download the PDF on Letter or A4 sheets and print at 100% scale, without "fit to page". The first sheet has the test square: measure it with a ruler. Sheets are taped with an overlap along the ⅜ in1 cm strips; sheet numbers and the assembly diagram are on the first page. For a copy shop or plotter, choose "One-sheet PDF".
What you get
Full-size T-shirt front and back on the fold: armhole notches for the sleeve and at the waistline, grainline, seam allowances and hem allowance.
FAQ
How does the men's pattern differ from the women's?
Shoulders are wider, the neck is thicker, the bust line is lower, the back waist length is longer, and the shoulder slope is less: a man's shoulders are already broad. If you know your shoulder width and neck circumference, enter them in "Refine"; otherwise the tool estimates them from bust.
How do the T-shirt, sweatshirt and hoodie differ?
They're one block with different ease: the T-shirt has 2⅜–3⅛ in6–8 cm bust ease, the sweatshirt 10–14, the hoodie 16 and more. The more ease, the looser the garment and the more the shoulder is dropped. Choose the garment in the "What are you sewing" field — the ease values fill in automatically, and you can adjust them.
Do I need shoulder width?
Not necessarily: if you leave it at 0, the tool estimates it from bust. But with the measurement — across the back from one shoulder point to the other — the shoulder will fit more precisely.
Can I use the block for jackets and blouses?
Yes, the dartless block works for loose blouses, bombers, windbreakers and jackets. For outerwear, increase bust ease to 5½–7⅞ in14–20 cm and armhole depth ease to 2–2⅜ in5–6 cm so there's room for layers underneath.