Measurements you need
Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.
Usually 31½–51⅛ in.Usually 80–130 cm.Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually ¾–1⅝ in above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually 2–4 cm above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.
Usually 22⅞–43¼ in.Usually 58–110 cm.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.
Usually 33⅛–51⅛ in.Usually 84–130 cm.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.
Usually 14⅝–17⅜ in.Usually 37–44 cm.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 23⅝ in, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 60 cm, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.
Skirt 15¾–39⅜ in, pants 35⅜–43¼ in, shorts 11¾–21⅝ in.Skirt 40–100 cm, pants 90–110 cm, shorts 30–55 cm.Bend your arm slightly at the elbow. From the end of the shoulder (shoulder bone) along the outside of the arm through the elbow to the desired length: for a long sleeve, to the wrist bone.Bend your arm slightly at the elbow. From the end of the shoulder (shoulder bone) along the outside of the arm through the elbow to the desired length: for a long sleeve, to the wrist bone.
Long 22–24⅜ in, three-quarter 16½–18⅞ in, short 8⅝–11 in. For children, long is about 0.29 of height.Long 56–62 cm, three-quarter 42–48 cm, short 22–28 cm. For children, long is about 0.29 of height.How the dress is drafted
The bodice is our dress block, checked against the SCUT pattern maker: bust ease 2 in5 cm, a bust dart from the side seam, waist darts and a center back seam with waist shaping. We cut the block at the waistline, and the darts open into the waist seam. The neckline is either at the base of the neck, as on the block, or round: ⅝ in1.5 cm wider at the shoulder, 1⅝ in4 cm deeper at the front and ⅝ in1.5 cm deeper at the back. The skirt is our godet skirt: all panels are identical, at the hip line each is exactly (hip + ease) / number of panels, from the hips the seam narrows slightly, and from the start of the flare it curves outward; the hem meets the seam at a right angle, so the finished hem is even, without "jagged" edges.
The skirt is drafted from the same waist with the same ease as the bodice, so the waist seam matches: the pattern maker checks this on the finished pieces — the bodice waist length with the darts closed and the sum of the panel waistlines. The sleeve is a one-piece sleeve, drafted to the bodice armhole length with sleeve cap ease.
We checked the draft against proven commercial patterns of the same style: the main measurements match.
How to print and tape
Download the PDF on Letter or A4 sheets and print at 100% scale, without "fit to page". The first sheet has the test square: measure it with a ruler. The sheets are taped with an overlap along the ⅜ in1 cm strips; sheet numbers and the assembly diagram are on the first page. For a copy shop or plotter, choose "One-sheet PDF".
What you get
Bodice back and front with darts, a skirt panel with hip line and flare start marks, and a sleeve with notches — full size, with seam allowances.
FAQ
How many panels should I choose?
Six is the classic: the skirt fits the hips closely and flares beautifully. Eight gives a fuller, softer bell, with seams that stay almost straight even when the difference between waist and hips is large. Four is easier to sew, but when the difference between hips and waist is more than 9⅞ in25 cm, the seams at the hip become too slanted, and the pattern maker will ask you to choose more panels.
Where is the closure?
A concealed zipper in the center back seam — through both bodice and skirt. Sew the panels so that one of the seams falls exactly on the center back: all panels are identical, so any seam works. The pattern maker gives the zipper length under the draft.
What skirt length do I need?
Skirt length is measured from the waist: 23⅝–25⅝ in60–65 cm is knee-length, 75–85 is midi, 100 and more is floor-length. By default the flare starts just above the knee; you can raise or lower it in the "Flare start from waist" field.
What fabric should I choose?
A fabric that drapes well: viscose, cotton poplin, crepe de chine, low-stretch dress jersey, lightweight wool. Fabric that is too stiff won't fall into a bell — it will stand out like a cone.