Measurements you need
Bend your arm slightly at the elbow. From the end of the shoulder (shoulder bone) along the outside of the arm through the elbow to the desired length: for a long sleeve, to the wrist bone.Bend your arm slightly at the elbow. From the end of the shoulder (shoulder bone) along the outside of the arm through the elbow to the desired length: for a long sleeve, to the wrist bone.
Long 22–24⅜ in, three-quarter 16½–18⅞ in, short 8⅝–11 in. For children, long is about 0.29 of height.Long 56–62 cm, three-quarter 42–48 cm, short 22–28 cm. For children, long is about 0.29 of height.This is not a body measurement but a preference: the circumference of the sleeve hem. For a long sleeve, wrist circumference plus 2⅜–3⅞ in so the hand passes through; for a short sleeve, looser, per the style.This is not a body measurement but a preference: the circumference of the sleeve hem. For a long sleeve, wrist circumference plus 6–10 cm so the hand passes through; for a short sleeve, looser, per the style.
Usually 8⅝–11¾ in.Usually 22–30 cm.Lower your arm. Tape horizontally around the widest part of the arm above the elbow, perpendicular to the arm. Optional measurement: the tool uses it to check that the sleeve isn't too narrow.Lower your arm. Tape horizontally around the widest part of the arm above the elbow, perpendicular to the arm. Optional measurement: the tool uses it to check that the sleeve isn't too narrow.
Usually 9½–15¾ in, for children 6¼–10¼ in.Usually 24–40 cm, for children 16–26 cm.Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.
Usually 31½–51⅛ in.Usually 80–130 cm.How the sleeve is drafted
The sleeve is drafted from the armhole length — just as you would draft it by hand. Lines run from the top of the sleeve cap to the sleeve corners, each equal to half the armhole, and the cap curve is drawn along them: convex at the top, concave at the corners, more so at the front than at the back. Each half of the cap is set so that it equals the armhole plus half the ease. By default the cap height is about three quarters of the average armhole depth of the dress. The sleeve seams run from the corners down to the hem at the width you set, and come out the same length.
The top of the sleeve cap is matched to the shoulder seam, and the corners to the side seam. The ease is distributed over the upper part of the cap, between the notches.
How to print and tape
Download the PDF on Letter or A4 sheets and print at 100%, without "fit to page". The first sheet has the test square: measure it with a ruler. Sheets are taped together with an overlap along the strips ⅜ in1 cm; sheet numbers and the assembly diagram are on the first page. For a copy shop or plotter, choose "One-sheet PDF".
What you get
A full-size sleeve: the cap with a notch at the shoulder, the sleeve width line, the grainline, seam allowances and hem allowance. Cut two pieces as mirror images. Below the draft are the armhole length, the cap and the ease.
FAQ
Where does the armhole length come from?
From the dress or blouse sloper — the one you drafted most recently, using the measurements you entered: the tool remembers them in your browser and notes below the draft which sloper the armhole comes from. If you haven't drafted a sloper, the armhole is calculated from the bust. You can also enter the back and front armhole lengths manually in the "Sleeve cap and armhole" section.
What is sleeve cap ease?
The sleeve cap is a little longer than the armhole so the sleeve hugs the top of the arm without pulling. The extra length is distributed over the top of the cap when you baste it in. For a dress it's usually ⅜–¾ in1–2 cm, for a jacket more, for knit fabric 0.
How do I make the sleeve wider or narrower?
Sleeve width depends on cap height: the lower the cap, the wider the sleeve and the roomier the arm, but the more folds under the arm. Set the cap height manually or enter your upper arm measurement — the tool will check that the sleeve is 1⅝–4¾ in4–12 cm roomier than your arm.
How do I make a short sleeve?
Reduce the length: a short sleeve is usually 8⅝–11 in22–28 cm from the shoulder point. The sleeve must be at least 2⅜ in6 cm longer than the cap — the tool will let you know if it isn't.