Measurements you need
Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually ¾–1⅝ in above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually 2–4 cm above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.
Usually 22⅞–43¼ in.Usually 58–110 cm.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.
Usually 33⅛–51⅛ in.Usually 84–130 cm.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 23⅝ in, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 60 cm, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.
Skirt 15¾–39⅜ in, pants 35⅜–43¼ in, shorts 11¾–21⅝ in.Skirt 40–100 cm, pants 90–110 cm, shorts 30–55 cm.How the boxer briefs are drafted
The back is cut on the fold, the front side panels are cut as a pair, and the pouch is made from two halves with a center seam: the curved seam gives the volume at the front. The widths at the waistband are calculated from the waist, at the hem from the hip, and the crotch depth (rise) from the hip; if your knit stretches more or less than average, the pieces are narrowed or widened.
We checked the draft against proven commercial patterns for the same style: the key measurements match.
The pattern maker checks the draft itself: side seams match, the pouch meets the side at the notch and along the curve, the gusset meets the back and front, and the waistband and hem line up with your measurements. The results appear in the "Draft check" section.
How to print and tape
Download the PDF on Letter or A4 sheets and print at 100% scale, without "fit to page". The first sheet has the test square: measure it with a ruler. Tape the sheets together with an overlap along the strips ⅜ in1 cm; sheet numbers and the assembly diagram are on the first page. For a copy shop or plotter, choose "One-sheet PDF".
What you get
The back on the fold, the front side panel, the pouch and the gusset at full size, with seam allowances for an overlocker and a hem allowance. The elastic length is below the drawing.
FAQ
What measurements do I need?
Your waist — where the elastic will sit — and your hip at the fullest part of the seat. You can leave the side length at 0: the pattern maker will work it out from the proportions, about 7⅞ in20 cm at a hip of 102.
What knit fabric should I use?
Jersey or interlock with lycra — "Medium"; cotton without lycra stretches little, swimwear lycra and microfibre stretch a lot. The more the fabric stretches, the narrower the pattern maker makes the pieces.
How do I sew them?
Sew the two pouch halves together along the center seam, then attach the pouch to the front sides at the notch and along the curve. Sew the gusset in, one side to the front hem and the other to the back hem, matching the notches to the center. Sew the side seams, turn up the hem, sew the elastic into a ring and attach it along the waistband, stretching as you go.
Can I make them longer?
Yes, up to about 11–11⅜ in28–29 cm at the side with a hip of 102: the side hem drops below the gusset and the hem line becomes flatter. You can't go longer on boxer briefs with a gusset — that would need an inseam, which is a different cut (boxer shorts).