Measurements you need
Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually ¾–1⅝ in above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually 2–4 cm above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.
Usually 22⅞–43¼ in.Usually 58–110 cm.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.
Usually 33⅛–51⅛ in.Usually 84–130 cm.At the side, from the waistline down to the level where you measured the hip. It helps to tie a ribbon at the waist and measure from it.At the side, from the waistline down to the level where you measured the hip. It helps to tie a ribbon at the waist and measure from it.
Usually 7⅛–8⅝ in.Usually 18–22 cm.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 23⅝ in, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 60 cm, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.
Skirt 15¾–39⅜ in, pants 35⅜–43¼ in, shorts 11¾–21⅝ in.Skirt 40–100 cm, pants 90–110 cm, shorts 30–55 cm.Which fit to choose
Fit is all about ease: how much extra room to add to your body measurements. Choose it in the "Fit, ease and seams" section — the numbers fill in automatically, and you can adjust them.
| Fit | At the waist | At the hip | When to choose it |
|---|---|---|---|
| Close-fitting | +¼ in0.5 cm | +⅜ in1 cm | Snug against the body. For fabrics with elastane and for a pencil skirt. |
| Standard | +⅜ in1 cm | +¾ in2 cm | Follows the figure with room to move. Works for most fabrics. |
| Loose | +⅝ in1.5 cm | +1⅝ in4 cm | Relaxed, away from the hips. For firm fabrics with no stretch and a loose silhouette. |
How the straight skirt pattern is drafted
The hip width of each half is a quarter of the hip measurement plus ease. The pattern maker distributes the difference between hip and waist the way it's done in manual drafting: about half goes into the side seam, and the rest goes into darts on the front and back. On the back, the darts are longer and wider, and the ones nearer the side are wider than those near the center. The center back seam at the waist is taken in by ⅜ in1 cm, for the zipper or vent.
How to print and tape
Download the PDF on Letter or A4 sheets and print at 100% scale, without "fit to page". The first sheet has the test square: measure it with a ruler. Tape the sheets together with an overlap along the ⅜ in1 cm strips; sheet numbers and the assembly guide are on the first page. For a copy shop or plotter, choose "One-sheet PDF".
What you get
A full-size skirt front on the fold and a back with a center seam (or also on the fold — your choice): darts, hip line, grainline, seam allowances and hem allowance. Add a waistband and zipper to your taste.
FAQ
How much fabric does a straight skirt need?
For a knee-length skirt with fabric 54–60 in140–150 cm wide, one garment length plus 3⅞ in10 cm for the waistband and seam allowances. If the hip is larger than 43¼ in110 cm, take two lengths.
Why two darts instead of one?
The pattern maker decides how many darts are needed: the bigger the difference between hip and waist, the more darts, so that each one is no wider than 1⅛–1⅝ in3–4 cm and lies flat.
Will the pattern work for a larger size?
Yes, measurements can be entered from 50 up to 63 in160 cm. If the difference between hip and waist is too big for a darted skirt, the pattern maker will let you know and suggest a style.
How do I make the skirt longer or shorter?
Change the length — the pattern redrafts right away. Measure at the side from the waistline down to the hem you want.