Measurements you need
Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.
Usually 31½–51⅛ in.Usually 80–130 cm.Tape horizontally under the arms, in front — above the bust, at the back — across the shoulder blades. The difference from the bust shows how much the bust projects: the bust dart depends on it. You can leave 0 — we'll calculate for an average bust.Tape horizontally under the arms, in front — above the bust, at the back — across the shoulder blades. The difference from the bust shows how much the bust projects: the bust dart depends on it. You can leave 0 — we'll calculate for an average bust.
Usually 1⅛–3⅛ in less than the bust.Usually 3–8 cm less than the bust.Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually ¾–1⅝ in above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually 2–4 cm above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.
Usually 22⅞–43¼ in.Usually 58–110 cm.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.
Usually 33⅛–51⅛ in.Usually 84–130 cm.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.
Usually 14⅝–17⅜ in.Usually 37–44 cm.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 23⅝ in, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 60 cm, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.
Skirt 15¾–39⅜ in, pants 35⅜–43¼ in, shorts 11¾–21⅝ in.Skirt 40–100 cm, pants 90–110 cm, shorts 30–55 cm.How the vest is drafted
It's based on the dress sloper: the same grid, a bust dart from the side seam and waist darts. We checked it against standard body measurements tables. For the vest, the armhole is lowered by ¾ in2 cm, the shoulder is shortened by 1 in2.5 cm (by ⅝ in1.5 cm at the armhole and by ⅜ in1 cm at the neck), and the neckline is wider. The opening runs from the shoulder at the neck to center front, with a ¾ in2 cm wrap for the buttons. Buttons are marked along center front at 2⅜–3½ in6–9 cm spacing.
If the vest is shorter than the hip line, the pattern maker drafts the hem from the circumference between waist and hip at that height — so the vest doesn't stand away or pull.
The pattern maker checks the draft itself: bust, waist and hem circumferences, matching side seams, back shoulder fit, darts, the lowered armhole and button spacing. Results are in the "Draft check" section.
How to print and tape
Download the PDF on Letter or A4 sheets and print at 100%, without "fit to page". The first sheet has the test square: measure it with a ruler. Sheets are taped with an overlap along the ⅜ in1 cm strips; sheet numbers and the assembly diagram are on the first page. For a copy shop or plotter, choose "One-sheet PDF".
What you get
A back on the fold and a front at full size, with seam allowances, darts and button marks. The lining is cut from the same pieces.
FAQ
How is the vest pattern different from the dress sloper?
A vest is worn over a blouse, so the armhole is lowered by ¾ in2 cm and the shoulder is shorter so the armhole edge doesn't reach the shoulder bone. The neckline is wider at the neck by ⅜ in1 cm, and the opening is V-shaped: to bust level or deeper. Bust ease is 3⅛ in8 cm — the vest doesn't pull over a shirt.
What fabric should I use?
Suiting wool, tweed, gabardine, linen, heavy cotton, corduroy. For the lining, viscose or acetate. You can interface the front and back with a thin fusible along the opening and closure edges so they don't stretch.
How do I sew a lined vest?
Sew the darts and shoulder seams separately on the vest and the lining. Place them right sides together and stitch along the opening, closure, hem and armholes, leaving the side seams open. Turn it through the shoulders, stitch the vest and lining side seams in one pass, and press. Cut the buttonholes at the button marks.
How long should I make it?
A classic vest is 5⅞–7⅞ in15–20 cm below the waist: it covers the waistband of trousers or a skirt. An elongated one is 9⅞–11¾ in25–30 cm, to mid-hip. The pattern maker won't draft shorter than 5½ in14 cm.