Measurements you need
Tape around the head: in front above the eyebrows across the forehead, at the back along the most prominent part of the back of the head. Don't pull tight.Tape around the head: in front above the eyebrows across the forehead, at the back along the most prominent part of the back of the head. Don't pull tight.
Usually 21¼–22⅞ in for adults.Usually 54–58 cm for adults.From the base of the neck at the side (where the neck meets the shoulder) up over the crown to the same point on the other side. You can leave 0 — we'll estimate from the head circumference.From the base of the neck at the side (where the neck meets the shoulder) up over the crown to the same point on the other side. You can leave 0 — we'll estimate from the head circumference.
Usually 24⅜–28⅜ in.Usually 62–72 cm.Tape around the base of the neck: at the back across the prominent vertebra, in front — above the hollow between the collarbones. You can leave 0 — we'll calculate from the bust.Tape around the base of the neck: at the back across the prominent vertebra, in front — above the hollow between the collarbones. You can leave 0 — we'll calculate from the bust.
Usually 13⅜–16½ in.Usually 34–42 cm.How the hood is drafted
The height of each half is half the arc from the neck over the crown to the neck on the other side plus ease; the depth is half the head circumference plus ease. The front edge is slanted by ¾ in2 cm, the neckline rises toward the back of the head, and the back of the head is rounded with a large radius. The hood neckline matches the garment neckline: any extra length along the bottom is taken up by a dart at the shoulder, but no more than 1⅝ in4 cm.
The pattern maker checks the draft for you: neckline length, height and ease at the depth, a smooth center seam, and for the two-seam version, the length of the center panel. Results appear in the "Draft check" section.
How to sew it in
Sew the halves together along the center seam (or sew each half to the center panel), then sew the darts. Fold under the front edge — by 1⅛ in3 cm if you want a casing for a drawstring. Baste the hood into the garment neckline: the center of the dart at the shoulder seam, the center seam at the center back.
How to print and tape
Download the PDF on Letter or A4 sheets and print at 100% scale, without "fit to page". The first sheet has the test square: measure it with a ruler. Sheets are taped together with an overlap along the ⅜ in1 cm strips; sheet numbers and the assembly diagram are on the first page. For a copy shop or plotter, choose "One-sheet PDF".
What you get
A full-size hood half (or side piece and center panel) with the dart, shoulder notch, grainline and seam allowances; the front edge has an allowance for the casing.
FAQ
Where does the neckline length come from?
From the dress or blouse sloper — the one you drafted most recently in this tool: the hood neckline will match that opening exactly. If you haven't drafted a sloper, the neckline is calculated from the neck circumference, which you can enter in your measurements.
Simple or two-seam?
A simple hood is two halves with a seam down the center of the back of the head and crown, and it sews up faster. A two-seam hood has a center panel from forehead to neck: it sits fuller and more evenly on the head, and the seam doesn't run over the crown.
Why the dart at the neckline?
The back of the head is wider than the neck, so the bottom of the hood is longer than the garment opening. The extra is taken up by a small dart at the shoulder — its center is aligned with the shoulder seam. This keeps the hood from bunching at the back of the head.
What is the overlap at the neck?
The front edges of the hood cross over each other — like a hoodie where the hood crosses under the chin. 0 means the edges meet edge-to-edge at center front. The overlap is added to the hood neckline.
What is a hood with a collar stand?
At the bottom, the front edge of the hood comes forward and rises — creating a collar stand that covers the neck, like on jackets and windbreakers with a zip up to the chin. You can set the stand height and how far forward it comes; the stand is available on both the simple and the two-seam hood.