Measurements you need
Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually ¾–1⅝ in above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually 2–4 cm above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.
Usually 22⅞–43¼ in.Usually 58–110 cm.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.
Usually 33⅛–51⅛ in.Usually 84–130 cm.At the side, from the waistline down to the level where you measured the hip. It helps to tie a ribbon at the waist and measure from it.At the side, from the waistline down to the level where you measured the hip. It helps to tie a ribbon at the waist and measure from it.
Usually 7⅛–8⅝ in.Usually 18–22 cm.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 23⅝ in, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 60 cm, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.
Skirt 15¾–39⅜ in, pants 35⅜–43¼ in, shorts 11¾–21⅝ in.Skirt 40–100 cm, pants 90–110 cm, shorts 30–55 cm.Which fit to choose
Fit is all about ease: how much extra room to add to your body measurements. Choose it in the "Fit, ease and seams" section — the numbers fill in automatically, and you can adjust them.
| Fit | At the waist | At the hip | When to choose it |
|---|---|---|---|
| Close-fitting | +¼ in0.5 cm | +⅜ in1 cm | Snug against the body. For fabrics with elastane and for a pencil skirt. |
| Standard | +⅜ in1 cm | +¾ in2 cm | Follows the figure with room to move. Works for most fabrics. |
| Loose | +⅝ in1.5 cm | +1⅝ in4 cm | Loose, not clinging to the hips. For firm fabrics with no stretch and a relaxed silhouette. |
How a pencil skirt differs from a straight skirt
Down to the hip line it's the same straight skirt with darts, but below that the side seams taper smoothly inward by the amount you set. The seam leaves the hip line without a kink, so the skirt follows the figure and doesn't bunch at the hip. A narrow hem needs a vent at the back: without one, a pencil skirt is hard to walk in.
How to print and tape
Download the PDF on Letter or A4 sheets and print at 100% scale, without "fit to page". The first sheet has the test square: measure it with a ruler. Sheets are taped together with an overlap along the strips ⅜ in1 cm; sheet numbers and the assembly guide are on the first page. For a copy shop or plotter, choose "One-sheet PDF".
What you get
Full-size front and back for a pencil skirt: darts, hip line, grainline, seam allowances and hem allowance. The taper at the hem is visible on the draft right away, and you can change it.
FAQ
How much should I taper the skirt at the hem?
Usually ¾–1⅛ in2–3 cm on each side. The more you taper, the shorter your stride: with a taper over 1⅛ in3 cm you'll need a vent or slit at the back.
What fabric should I choose for a pencil skirt?
Firm suiting fabrics with a little elastane hold their shape best. A close-fitting ease works well for them.
Will the pattern work in a large size?
Yes, measurements can be entered from 50 up to 63 in160 cm. If the difference between hip and waist is too big for a darted skirt, the tool will tell you and suggest a different style.
Where should the vent go?
In the center back seam, from the hem up 5⅞–7⅞ in15–20 cm. The center back seam is included by default in the tool.