Measurements you need
Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.
Usually 31½–51⅛ in.Usually 80–130 cm.Tape around the base of the neck: at the back across the prominent vertebra, in front — above the hollow between the collarbones. You can leave 0 — we'll calculate from the bust.Tape around the base of the neck: at the back across the prominent vertebra, in front — above the hollow between the collarbones. You can leave 0 — we'll calculate from the bust.
Usually 13⅜–16½ in.Usually 34–42 cm.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.
Usually 33⅛–51⅛ in.Usually 84–130 cm.Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually ¾–1⅝ in above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually 2–4 cm above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.
Usually 22⅞–43¼ in.Usually 58–110 cm.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.
Usually 14⅝–17⅜ in.Usually 37–44 cm.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 23⅝ in, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 60 cm, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.
Skirt 15¾–39⅜ in, pants 35⅜–43¼ in, shorts 11¾–21⅝ in.Skirt 40–100 cm, pants 90–110 cm, shorts 30–55 cm.Bend your arm slightly at the elbow. From the end of the shoulder (shoulder bone) along the outside of the arm through the elbow to the desired length: for a long sleeve, to the wrist bone.Bend your arm slightly at the elbow. From the end of the shoulder (shoulder bone) along the outside of the arm through the elbow to the desired length: for a long sleeve, to the wrist bone.
Long 22–24⅜ in, three-quarter 16½–18⅞ in, short 8⅝–11 in. For children, long is about 0.29 of height.Long 56–62 cm, three-quarter 42–48 cm, short 22–28 cm. For children, long is about 0.29 of height.Tape around the wrist over the protruding bone, loose, not tight. The cuff is drafted from it: add 2¾ in ease and ¾ in for the closure.Tape around the wrist over the protruding bone, loose, not tight. The cuff is drafted from it: add 7 cm ease and 2 cm for the closure.
For men, usually 6¼–7⅞ in.For men, usually 16–20 cm.How the shirt dress is drafted
The top of the dress is our women's shirt: a back yoke, a front cut ¾ in2 cm wider than the back (room for the bust), a barely dropped shoulder, a deep neckline for the collar stand, and a sleeve with a high sleeve cap. Below the armhole the side seam runs to the hip line so that the hip measurement is at least hip + 3⅛ in8 cm, and from the hips the dress flares by the amount you set; the side hem is raised slightly so it meets the side seam at a right angle. The closure runs to the hem, with the last button 5⅞ in15 cm from the edge. The waistband comes in two halves joined at the center back, waist + 39⅜ in100 cm long so you can tie a bow; belt loops are marked at the side seams.
We checked the draft against proven commercial patterns for the same style: the key measurements match.
The pattern maker checks the draft itself: bust and hip, hem width, matching side seams, armhole with yoke, collar stand at the neckline, collar to stand, sleeve cap to armhole, and waistband length. You'll find the results in the "Draft check" section.
How to print and tape
Download the PDF on Letter or A4 sheets and print at 100% scale, without "fit to page". The first sheet has the test square: measure it with a ruler. Tape the sheets with an overlap along the ⅜ in1 cm strips; sheet numbers and the assembly guide are on the first page. For a copy shop or plotter, choose "One-sheet PDF".
What you get
Yoke, back, front with facing, button, slit and belt loop markings, sleeve (long with slit and cuff, or short), collar stand, collar, waistband and belt loops — full size, with seam allowances.
FAQ
What length should I choose?
Length is measured down the back from the prominent vertebra at the base of the neck to the hem. Knee length is usually 37⅜–39⅜ in95–100 cm for a height of 164–170, midi is 110–115, maxi is 130–140. Side seam slits make a long dress easier to walk in: 5⅞ in15 cm for a knee-length dress, 25–30 for maxi.
Which fit should I choose?
Classic — a straight dress, 5½–7½ in14–19 cm wider at the bust than the body; with a belt it gathers softly at the waist. Fitted — narrower at the bust, with back darts and sides tapered to the waist: it follows the figure even without a belt. Relaxed — oversized with a back pleat.
Will the dress be roomy at the hips?
Yes: the side seam runs from the armhole to the hip line (7⅞ in20 cm below the waist) so that the dress is at least 3⅛ in8 cm wider at the hips than the body — you can sit in it. Below the hips the dress flares by the amount you enter in the "Hem flare" field.
What fabric should I use?
Shirting cotton, linen, chambray, viscose, poplin, lightweight denim. Interface the collar stand, collar, cuffs and front facing with fusible interfacing.