Measurements you need
Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.
Usually 31½–51⅛ in.Usually 80–130 cm.Tape horizontally under the arms, in front — above the bust, at the back — across the shoulder blades. The difference from the bust shows how much the bust projects: the bust dart depends on it. You can leave 0 — we'll calculate for an average bust.Tape horizontally under the arms, in front — above the bust, at the back — across the shoulder blades. The difference from the bust shows how much the bust projects: the bust dart depends on it. You can leave 0 — we'll calculate for an average bust.
Usually 1⅛–3⅛ in less than the bust.Usually 3–8 cm less than the bust.Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually ¾–1⅝ in above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually 2–4 cm above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.
Usually 22⅞–43¼ in.Usually 58–110 cm.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.
Usually 33⅛–51⅛ in.Usually 84–130 cm.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.
Usually 14⅝–17⅜ in.Usually 37–44 cm.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 23⅝ in, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 60 cm, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.
Skirt 15¾–39⅜ in, pants 35⅜–43¼ in, shorts 11¾–21⅝ in.Skirt 40–100 cm, pants 90–110 cm, shorts 30–55 cm.Which ease to choose
By default, the ease for a loose-fitting blouse is set: bust 2⅜ in6 cm, waist 2⅜ in6 cm, hip 1⅝ in4 cm. For a fitted blouse made from fabric with elastane, reduce them by ¾ in2 cm; for a loose shirt, increase the bust ease to 3⅛–3⅞ in8–10 cm. You can change them in the "Fit, ease and seams" section.
How the blouse block is drafted
The block is drafted the same way as a dress block: a grid based on half the bust plus ease, back width, armhole and bust width, armhole depth from the prominent vertebra. The front is longer than the back by the excess over the bust — this is taken up by the bust dart from the side seam. The difference between bust and waist goes into the side seams and waist darts, or for a straight blouse, only into the side seams. Below the waist, the side seams flare out to the hips, and the hem is at the specified length from the waist.
The pattern maker checks the draft itself: bust, waist and hip circumferences along the finished outline, equal side seams, back shoulder fit, neckline freedom and armhole length. The results are in the "Draft check" section.
How to print and tape
Download the PDF on Letter or A4 sheets and print at 100% scale, without "fit to page". The first sheet has the test square: measure it with a ruler. The sheets are taped with an overlap along the strips ⅜ in1 cm; sheet numbers and the assembly diagram are on the first page. For a copy shop or plotter, choose "One-sheet PDF".
What you get
Back on the fold (or with a center seam) and front on the fold at full size: bust dart and optional waist darts, waist and hip lines, armhole notches, grainline, seam allowances and hem allowance. Below the drawing — the armhole length for the sleeve.
FAQ
How is the blouse block different from the dress block?
The drafting is the same — grid based on bust circumference, bust dart from the side seam, armhole and neckline. The blouse is shorter (just below the hips), the ease is looser, and the back is on the fold by default. And you can remove the waist darts — you'll get a straight blouse.
With waist darts or straight?
With darts, the blouse fits at the waist — you can tuck it in or wear it loose. Straight — without waist darts: the difference between bust and waist is taken up by the side seams, but no more than 1 in2.5 cm on each side, the rest goes into ease. The toggle is "Waist darts" under the measurements.
How to make a sleeve for the blouse?
Draft the blouse block and go to the "Sleeve" tab: the pattern maker will take the armhole from the blouse block you drafted last and will note this under the drawing.
What to do with the block next?
Use the block for patternmaking: move the bust dart to the shoulder, neckline or princess seam, add a closure and placket at the center front, change the neckline and length, add a collar. Before sewing from expensive fabric, make a test garment from muslin.