Waist-seam dress sewing pattern — front view sketch

Waist-seam dress pattern to your measurements

Free pattern for a dress with a waist seam: fitted bodice with a gathered skirt, drafted to your measurements. PDF on Letter or A4.

  • Free, no sign-up
  • PDF on Letter or one sheet
  • 4 × 4 in10 × 10 cm test square
  • Beta

1Your measurements, incm

Fit, ease and seams
Draft check: checking…
    Bodice backCut 2 pieces (mirrored)grainlinesewsize.com/Bodice frontCut 1 on foldgrainlinefabric foldsewsize.com/Skirt frontCut 1 on foldgrainlinefabric foldsewsize.com/Skirt backCut 2 pieces (center back seam — for the zipper)grainlinesewsize.com/SleeveCut 2 pieces (mirrored)grainlinebackfrontsewsize.com/
    Pattern size —Letter sheets —

    Measurements you need

    Bust

    Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.Tape horizontally across the most prominent points of the bust, at the back — slightly above the shoulder blades, under the arms. In your usual underwear, not pulled tight.

    Usually 31½–51⅛ in.Usually 80–130 cm.
    Waist circumference

    Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually ¾–1⅝ in above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.Tape horizontal around the narrowest part of your torso, usually 2–4 cm above the navel. Snug but not tight; don't pull in your stomach.

    Usually 22⅞–43¼ in.Usually 58–110 cm.
    Hip

    Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.Tape horizontal around the fullest part of your buttocks, allowing for the curve of your stomach. Stand straight, feet together.

    Usually 33⅛–51⅛ in.Usually 84–130 cm.
    Back waist length

    Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.Tilt your head: a prominent vertebra can be felt at the base of the neck at the back. Tape from it down along the spine to the waist tape.

    Usually 14⅝–17⅜ in.Usually 37–44 cm.
    Garment length

    At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 23⅝ in, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.At the side from the waistline down to the desired hem. For a knee-length skirt — about 60 cm, for pants — to the floor or to the ankle bone.

    Skirt 15¾–39⅜ in, pants 35⅜–43¼ in, shorts 11¾–21⅝ in.Skirt 40–100 cm, pants 90–110 cm, shorts 30–55 cm.
    Sleeve length

    Bend your arm slightly at the elbow. From the end of the shoulder (shoulder bone) along the outside of the arm through the elbow to the desired length: for a long sleeve, to the wrist bone.Bend your arm slightly at the elbow. From the end of the shoulder (shoulder bone) along the outside of the arm through the elbow to the desired length: for a long sleeve, to the wrist bone.

    Long 22–24⅜ in, three-quarter 16½–18⅞ in, short 8⅝–11 in. For children, long is about 0.29 of height.Long 56–62 cm, three-quarter 42–48 cm, short 22–28 cm. For children, long is about 0.29 of height.

    How the dress is drafted

    The bodice is our dress block, checked against the SCUT pattern maker: bust ease 2 in5 cm, a bust dart from the side seam, waist darts, and a center back seam with waist shaping. We cut the block at the waistline, and the darts open into the waist seam — the bodice of our godet dress is built the same way. The neckline is either a jewel neckline or round. The circle skirt and half-circle skirt come from our circle skirt: the waistline matches the bodice waist exactly, and the length is the same all the way around. The gathered skirt is made of rectangles wider than the bodice waist by whatever factor you choose; the pattern maker won't let it be narrower than the hips, or you wouldn't be able to put the dress on. The sleeve is a one-piece sleeve, drafted to the bodice armhole length with sleeve cap ease.

    We checked the draft against proven commercial patterns for the same style: the key measurements match.

    The pattern maker checks the draft itself: bust and waist, back length, shoulder seams, matching bodice side seams, bodice and skirt joining at the waist, skirt width, and sleeve cap against the armhole. The results are in the “Draft check” section.

    How to print and tape

    Download the PDF on Letter or A4 sheets and print at 100% scale, without “fit to page.” The first sheet has the test square: measure it with a ruler. The sheets are taped together with an overlap along the ⅜ in1 cm strips; sheet numbers and the assembly guide are on the first page. For a copy shop or plotter, choose “One-sheet PDF.”

    What you get

    Bodice back and front with darts, the skirt (front and back or circle skirt panels), and the sleeve with notches — full size, with seam allowances.

    FAQ

    Which skirt should I choose?

    Gathered — a classic summer dress: a skirt made of rectangles gathered at the waist; fullness 1.5 is a little, 2 is full. Half-circle — a soft flare, one piece with a center back seam. Circle — the fullest, with a hem several times wider than the waist, in four panels.

    Where is the closure?

    A concealed zipper in the center back seam — through the bodice and skirt, from the neckline to 7⅛ in18 cm below the waist. The pattern maker shows the zipper length under the draft.

    What fabric should I use?

    For a gathered skirt — cotton, linen, spun rayon, or chiffon with a lining. For a circle skirt — fabrics that drape softly: viscose, crepe de chine, lightweight wool; a stiff fabric will stand out like a bell. You can interface the bodice neckline with a lightweight fusible interfacing.

    Ready-made patterns

    The pattern maker is in beta. Patterns are drafted by formula and checked against proven patterns, but mistakes are possible: sew a test version from inexpensive fabric before cutting into the good stuff. Found a problem? Let us know.